Friday, September 30, 2005

So, I am writing to you from Suzhou, Portland's sister city, famed for it's gardens and its canals. We got here this afternoon, and so far we have seen several canals (it's not exactly "the Venice of China" but the canals are very pleasant) but no gardens yet. We had originally planned on going to Kunming, but the plane tickets turned out to be 3440 yuan, which was way to expensive. We decided instead to go to Hangzhou, Suzhou, and Shanghai. We spent the last two nights in Hangzhou, which is known as China's tourist capital of the world. The bus station seemed to prove that, because as soon as we got of the bus, we were hassled with dozens of people trying to get us to go to their hotels or on their tours or to buy their maps. Finally we managed to make it on to a bus and get into the middle of town. We ended up near the Hangzhou tourist information center, where a very pushy man told us that he could get us a room in a 3 star hotel nearby for 150 yuan. We confirmed that there was nothing remotely as cheap as that in the area at the tourist area, so we followed the man to a room that was neither in a three star hotel nor 150 yuan.  At first he tried to get us to pay 220 yuan, but finally we were able to get the room for 160 yuan after bargaining with the front desk woman.  We were in the center of town near the West Lake, this enormous and beautiful lake with many famous pavilions and gardens on islands in the middle.  We ended up on a boat ride with a Chinese man and his little sister (both in their thirties) and listened to the boat rider recite poetry and make literary references that went way over our head.  After the boat ride, it was completely dark and the siblings asked if we wanted to share a cab.  We ended up riding around the middle fo nowhere in the dark past tea fields on the outskirts of Hangzhou. Hangzhou is famous for a tea that is somehow related to the Qing dynasty emperor Qianlong and a well.  We got to see the well and taste the tea, and then we went back to the heart of the city and walked around in the shoppin g district. 

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